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I'm not exactly sure what you were trying to explain above because that's not how the lithium BIM works. The lithium BIM has a sliding contactor that allows direct connection between the house batteries and the chassis batteries when that connection is desired. It contains a control circuit that will allow the system to analyze and charge if required the house batteries, based on voltages of both the chassis and house batteries. This control circuit is activated through a power wire connected to the ignition circuit. When the control circuit is active, it will analyze both batteries and when the house batteries are below 13.8 V and the chassis battery is receiving a charge from the alternator it will allow the contactor to close and allow charge to flow from the alternator through the chassis battery into the house battery. The pulsing that you are referring to is a 15 minute on, 15 minute off cycle.There is also a signal wire connection that you made reference to as the boost switch. That switch is utilized to manually close the contactor and can be utilized in case of a low state of charge on the chassis battery in order to boost the charge of the chassis battery. Also within the control circuit, the lithium BIM will monitor the house battery voltage, and when it is receiving a charge from an exterior source, such as solar or an inverter charger, it will allow the contactor to close and charge the starting battery for an hour.

@@mattonyoutube we have them in stock. How many are you looking for?

Great information! Thank you!

@@KELLYPARRISH if you have a 50 amp coach and are using two single phase inverters, you will want to set them up in split phase. If you are using two 2x120 inverters, then Parallel may be a better option. If your coach is 30 amps, you could use two inverters in parallel to double your current output.

@@PanelsUpSolar - thanks! We have a 50 amp coach with two 2x120 multiplies II set up in parallel. Was just wondering what the difference would be set for split phase.

@@KELLYPARRISH if you set up the inverters in split phase, L2 would not function on the two inverters you would lose functionality of the combining contactor will not function. Each inverter would have to be set up to power its own leg of power with one designated L1 and one designated L2. Your current limit would be 3000va per leg. But the benefit would be that you can decrease the max current limit from your shore connection down to 9.5amps total.

Our hearts go out to all the people in our country who lost their job over mandates. Could I interest you in more information in VoltGo or Victron batteries?

@@dennishudson8382 thanks for the kind words. We are really trying to do more of these videos to help people get a better understanding of the systems that we install.

Great!!! Glad it helped. Let us know if you have any other questions!

Thank you!!! I appreciate your comment. :)

Let us know if there is anything we can help with.

the DC to DC charge controller can be set to automatically shut off if the supplying power source drops below a designated voltage. www.victronenergy.com/media/pg/Orion_XS_12-12-50A_DC-DC_battery_charger/en/index-en.html

Did you try to reduce your current limit?

Please reach out if we can help with either solution.

I believe RVing with Tito did that. I could be wrong, but I believe he didn't have great results. He was all for it, but then if I'm not mistaken, he did a follow up that wasn't favorable. Again, I may be wrong on who I'm thinking did this. Best of luck. I'd be interested to see how it worked out a year or so after!

Be sure to check out the next video that we are going to film today (Apr 25, 2024) for a new build we just finished. Multiple charging sources is really helpful in ensuring your system works well for you.

@@PanelsUpSolar , I definitely will!! thanks for alerting me !

Hot weather is not necessarily the issue. It depends on the usage. The inverter is going to generate heat when it is converting dc to ac power or ac to dc power. but if you are plugged in somewhere and your batteries are full, the inverter is just passing through power from the shore power connection so it is not generating heat

The power is redirected coming out of the transfer switch, through the Victron inverter(s) then into the main circuit breaker panel.

Let us know if we can help you out. We can also provide all the parts and materials if you would like to do a DIY install.

Thank you! Sorry for all the audio problems throughout. :)

Sending parameters to both is an option. Inn parallel, it is important to make sure that wire lengths are equal. What are you installing the system in?

@@PanelsUpSolar The system has been up and running for six months for my off grid outbuilding, I am aware of the cables length and trying to fin a way around it as I did not design it for twin inverters. As it stands I would have 40cm difference for both DC and AC so I'll have to rearrange the wiring but I was questioning what degree of impact they would have if left at that moderately small discrepancy (1m vs 1.4m)

@@9111logic it is pretty important that the lengths are similar as the inverters are going to perform as a pair.

I am not quite sure I understand your question. Are you asking about turning off the neutral to ground bond in the second inverter?

What is the reasoning for doing that? Are you having a problem?

The Cerbo is pretty far away. We used a high quality HDMI extension cable to make the distance. But it needs to be a good quality cable. If that Epoch battery is to far out on back order, let me know. I have a really good alternative for you. Also with Victron communication and I am sure I can beat the pricing. I would also suggest you look at your power needs and consider a 12/3000 vs the 12/2000. The small price difference is worth the extra benefits you will get with the larger inverter. Feel free to reach out if you would like more information.

Thanks for the compliments and best of luck with your system. Gaining the knowledge and doing a build yourself is always my recommended path.

Not sure if you looked at the date that this video was created, but I am pretty sure that I was part of the reasoning the manual now states that. So right now the video is hanging out as a product review, which was a positive review, and to help the people who don't read manuals.

The firefly system does not allow the system to be configured for the Lithium Charge Profile so the inverter/charger does not properly charge the system. The charging from the chassis battery would also not be able to go through the Firefly system. But it can still be accomplished. You should go through the shop that you bought your batteries through and get their recommendations.

Yes, it will work for all of their inverter/chargers. But there are some easier ways now as well. The VictronConnect app can walk you through the entire process.

They did, www.victronenergy.com/dc-dc-converters/orion-xs-12-12-50a-dc-dc-battery-charger. Will be available soon.

@@PanelsUpSolar Wow! Thanks for the info. I was not aware of this. Looks like it'll be available around April.

I'm also waiting in line for the orion XS. 50amps for hours of driving vs a BIM that hammers on the alternator for 40% of the drive. The ability to see exactly what its contribution to the house bank is not trivial, to me.

@@tedutley859 700 watts added to the average alternator is still going to be a heavy load. Especially if running it through long lengths of 4 awg wire. The communication portion is certainly going to be a nice addition for sure.

@PanelsUpSolar I have 180 amp alt, and 2/0 cable from alt to house batts. 4/0 to inverter. Not too taxed, buy I just can't get behind the BIM.

I'm not sure what you're asking. Are you asking what the price for this installation was? Here's a list of the parts we used: 3 Victron 25.6v Smart Batteries 2 Victron Lynx Distributors Victron Lynx Smart BMS Victron Multiplus 24/3000 Victron DC to DC Converter Victron MPPT 100/50 Charge Controller Victron Cerbo with Touch 50 6 - 190w Go Power Overlander Panels If you reach out to us at sales@panelsupsolar.com and we can provide you with a quote specific to your needs.

I'll see if I can get an update video done. Everything was taken apart, repaired or corrected, and put back together much neater and most importantly, correctly.

s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/catsy.549/MANUAL_GP-IC-Series.pdf Here is a link to the owners manual. If you look at page 31, it will provide all the detail needed to make the connections for a 50amp coach. Let me know if you need anything else.

That’s if you need to buy a crimper at a roadside convenience store. Ring terminals are less than a buck if you are working in the business.

If you are just charging a single battery, then setting up a simple charge circuit should not be difficult but you would want to make sure you do it so It doesn’t have the potential to cause any issues. The dc-dc charger will allow for a little better control to the charge as it will be able to charge with the correct profile. The Redarc with its built in MPPT is decent all in one solution but there is not any reason that a separate controller would work and maybe be just a little more flexible if you are going to keep the battery portable.

@@PanelsUpSolar awesome thankyou. I’m just trying to get all my parts together I’m currently looking into some different monitoring devices. I see a lot of options that monitor the input/output of a solar system but do you know of something that will monitor the input from the alternator as well as when it’s being charged via solar panels? I’m looking at the renogy 500a battery monitor with shunt and/or the DROK voltage/amp meter. Not sure if you’re familiar with any of these products or if I’m explaining this well lol but figured I’d take a shot and ask. Just want to be able to monitor what’s coming in and going out when it’s hooked up to the alternator and when it’s out at camp on the panels.

A simple Victron SMartShunt will be able to monitor the batteries from you. It won't necessarily tell you where the power is coming from but will tell you that it is flowing in or out. We have them in stock and ready to ship. Then as you grow the system, the Victron products will all talk to each other and if you get to a more comprehensive system you will be able to see a lot of detail. @@ChristiannTyler

If you have heavy gauge wire there is a possibility that required current to the batteries could be high as they are going to match the voltage of your starter battery and alternator. So it would be maxing out your alternator when the battery is climbing to that voltage. For a class c, I recommend going with the li BIM as it will allow you to maintain the stock features of boost assist if the starting battery were to go dead but also adds the ability that if the house batteries are receiving a charge through solar or being plugged in, the Li BIM will close the contact to the chassis battery for an hour to maintain the starting battery regularly as well.

@@PanelsUpSolarso would maxing out the alternator for possibly 15 minutes occasionally be ok or bad? Sounds like it would be ok…?

The ic 2000 has an internal transfer switch so you can keep the inverter on 100% of the time. When plugged in it will charge your battery as well. It is a great inverter. Just pay attention to what you have on L2 when you are plugged into a single leg power source.

@@PanelsUpSolar thank you so much for helping me out on that. I appreciate it. Have a great day.

Glad you found it helpful. Let me know if there is anything else we can help you with.

Regardless of how you have your system set up the statement about lithium batteries still does not change. If your goal was to make a connection between the two you would want it to be the best it could be. When you started your engine and you measured your input to the battery, did you measure the output of the alternator? Do you know if your alternator was already maxed out and maybe the 28.52 amps was all it had to give?

@@PanelsUpSolarI know the rated output of the alt (180A) and the chassis load on the alternator (clamp meter). > If your goal was to make a connection between the two you would want it to be the best it could be Clearly not the case, or everyone would be running copper cable 1 foot in diameter. Maybe gold. > the statement about lithium batteries still does not change. Physics does not change: I=V/R

@@fratermus5502 Sorry I was believing this was a realistic conversation with some logic added for good measure. I assumed that with all the numbers you were throwing around that you knew that the rated output of the alternator and its true output were two different numbers. I also was under the impression that you realized that a lot of motorized RV's that were designed to have house battery charging from the alternator already come standard with the "fat Negative" battery cable as a requirement. They are configured that way to help overcome the restive challenges both in long wire runs and internal battery resistance. When a lithium battery is introduced, they have very little internal resistance so they can take a much larger charge from the charging source. Sometimes that current level is not sustainable for extended periods of time. Will it let out magic smoke? Possibly, but more likely it is just going to cause your alternator to reach its end of useful service at a much faster rate than originally designed.

@@PanelsUpSolar If you do not understand the difference between rated output and measured output (both important to your question about whether or not the alt had capacity to make more current) then I give up. I do not believe you are discussing the matter in good faith. Good day sir.

@@fratermus5502 I do understand the difference between rated output and measured output. What you did not mention in your splatter of numbers is where you measured the amperage charge that you were seeing. You also did not mention a total output of the alternator to include engine electronics without the lithium batteries pulling a charge. You also failed to mention at what RPM you were running the engine at. And for you to think that I had anything but good faith in the sharing of information says more about you than me. I have seen the results of people running their alternators at a high output and low rpm and have seen some failures with some being more dramatic than others. I am simply providing information on two methods that people can utilize to assist in protecting their equipment. There is no scare tactic or flaming engine bays trying to get someone to purchase something that is not needed. Perhaps you could make a followup video that shows where my information went wrong. Obviously you feel like mine is misguided.

Inboard to the frame and then followed the frame forward. It was not an easy procedure.

Do you have a coffee pot or a water pot?

That's what you got out of the whole video? Mega eye roll! LOL

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